🔗 Share this article Each Cook Ought to Learn At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on List of London’s Leading Restaurants. When assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London. An Unexpected Accolade The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family utterly shocked. “I am completely surprised,” says a proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list. The Character of Modesty This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner. A Signature Offering: Tantuni However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency. It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside. It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together. Beyond the Classic Tantuni Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”. For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour. Outranking the Titans Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations. Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that price. A Ethos of Warmth The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner. “I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.” The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”. A Story of Perseverance In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son. Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work. “My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares. An Achievement for the Community The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.